For a few fleeting moments time ceases to exist, you are flying, at one with the ocean and feeling something akin to pure joy! That’s my experience of surfing (even speaking as a pretty poor surfer).

The story below is about Lyndon Wake who is a pro surfer based in North Devon and who also runs a surf school. Having first bumped into Lyndon last year at Baggy Lodge café (as a family trying to escape the wind and the rain) we took the chance to sign up for lessons – both myself and my boys. It was so refreshing to learn and to see my boys learn from someone who was so enthusiastic, knowledgeable, inspiring and encouraging. It’s how it should be when it comes to any learning – but surely no “subject” more so than surfing! A completely different experience to any other surf school I have tried in the past. Here is Lyndon’s story of following his passion.

What’s your story of getting into surfing?

I was from London but we used to come down to Cornwall on holiday so I was surfing as a kid. Mum and dad were splitting so we had to move house. I said to mum “If we have to move house can we go and move to the sea?” After a lot of thought she was up for it! We moved and I was surfing as much as I could – sometimes four times a day. I always tried to surf before school and after school. Sometimes I used to take a bit of time off and surf during school too!

What do you love about it?

I like being in the water. It’s a good getaway. I like the challenge of you against the ocean. It’s always different. I never get bored of surfing Croyde.

What’s hardest about it?

It’s a constantly changing playing field. If you were skateboarding for example it’s all there but with surfing you are trying to improve with what you are given – the conditions are constantly changing.

How would you sum it up in three words?

Fun, tiring and peaceful.

Anytime when you thought about giving up?

I’ve had phases when I have exhausted my motivation for it. But no I never thought about giving it up.

A particular moment of joy/a high?

Loads. You always remember your good waves. I was over in Ireland a few years ago with a good friend. I caught the best wave of my life. I never claim a wave… But this this was such a big wave, so deep and I was so far inside the tunnel, thinking I wouldn’t come out, normally you come out where it spits but I came out after that.

An embarrassing moment?

I was at a contest in South West France. It was a huge event and I got two interferences. I completely didn’t realise. There was five thousand people on the beach and I had to get out of the heat early – I was told to get out of the water – and then had to walk past everyone.

Is there anything you are particularly looking forward to/ambitions?

I’d like to achieve a few things. You can always get better as a surfer. Plus I’d like to get some bigger waves but without it having to be caught on film. There can be so much pressure when you are working for it and I surf better without the pressure – there is a real freedom to it.

What are you most proud of?

All of my achievements when I was younger. Surfing for GB a number of times. Getting a European rating. Getting an XXL nomination. I’m proud of the surf school – that it’s worked! And that we give people a really good experience.

Favourite quote and/or piece of advice you’ve been given that has helped/inspired you on your way?

Just the thought never to give up. I genuinely believe that anything is possible if you believe, put the effort in and try 100%